Over 2,000 years ago, Pompeii was a thriving settlement in an emerging Roman state until a terrible eruption of Mt. Vesuvius buried it in the year 79 A.D. Volcanic debris, flames, and thick clouds of smoke and ash filled the skies on that fateful day; but during our visit, the only thing in the clear blue sky besides wispy white clouds was erratic condensation trails from overhead jets — something the doomed people of early Pompeii would never have seen.
Blue skies, smiling at me
nothing but blue skies, do I see
~ Irving Berlin
Finally – here’s part six and the final installment of my impressions of Italy. Part five had us leaving Positano for the return to Sorrento along the Amalfi Coast. As magnificent as this drive is, it comes with a host of dangers. Besides the narrow lanes and sharp curves, there are those daring Italian drivers who are known for their reckless behavior; like the crazy guy on the moped who felt the need to pass our van on a curve. There was a collective gasp from those of us who saw him, then a sigh of relief when he swooped in front of us just in time to miss the on-coming car.
We were dropped off at our hotel, which for the next two nights would be the lovely Hilton Sorrento Palace. The hotel is perched on a hilltop above the Bay of Naples with plenty of outdoor seating overlooking the sea. Breakfast was always a delight in the roomy buffet area where a wall of windows allowed us to enjoy the panoramic view.
After dinner the first night in Sorrento, we were warned that the windy conditions could possibly affect our morning plans for the Isle of Capri. It was suggested we eat a light breakfast since the passage across the bay would probably be rough. Sure enough, the wind was fierce – so bad, in fact, that our 7:30 departure was delayed an hour. On board, they handed out “sea-sickness” bags, and we were told to sit in the middle or back of the boat to minimize the chance of nausea.
I’m thankful the weather didn’t keep us from Capri! It was windy, but beautiful! We took the funicular railway from the port up the side of the mountain to the main town. Our local tour guide led us through the streets to the flower-decked terraces of the Gardens of Augustus. The view from here was stunning as the rugged landscape seemed to fall into the sea. We had time on our own to explore the town which has been a resort ever since the Roman Emperors used to come here on vacation. We walked past dozens of upscale boutiques, many displaying handmade leather sandals like the ones the late Jackie Kennedy Onassis used to wear. We heard the famous Clock Tower chime on the quarter hour several times before taking the funicular back down to the harbor.
We had complimentary granita’s with lunch at an outdoor cafe, then walked along the water-front checking out the shops and taking photos before boarding the boat back to Sorrento. The water was still choppy, but everyone from our group made it back without getting sick!
Although Sorrento is not technically part of the Amalfi Coast (which lies on the other side of the mountains), the challenging roads are much the same. For dinner on our last night in Sorrento, Giorgio drove our tour bus through the congested streets of the city, up into the steep and curvy hillsides – hairpin turns, crazy drivers and all – to an authentic farmhouse restaurant. We toured the agri-tourism operation then sat down to a meal featuring their own farm-fresh beef, chicken, cheese, olive oil, vegetables and wine. It was a wonderful meal served by delightful hosts. The bus ride down from the hills at night was an experience to remember!
The next thing I knew, it was our last day of sightseeing! The agenda called for a stop in Pompeii before returning to Rome for our final night. Strangely, it felt like we had been in Italy forever and like we had only just begun, all at the same time. This Globus tour had been all we could have hoped for.
Pompeii, the city frozen in time, was buried by volcanic ash and lava from Mount Vesuvius in 79 A.D. The entire city and its citizens were totally unprepared for the eruption and therefore, doomed. Volcanic debris filled the streets until nothing of the once thriving city could be seen. Pompeii remained buried for nearly 1700 years. Excavation began in 1748 and continues to this day. The sudden and complete devastation was haunting!
We arrived in Rome from Pompeii with just enough time to dress for our farewell dinner. It was a special treat to spend the evening at Tanagra – an elegant opera themed restaurant. Not only did we dine on traditional Italian food and free-flowing wine, but we listened to famous opera arias as well, performed by professional singers from the Rome Opera House. Such a perfect way to enjoy our final night in Italy.
It’s funny how you remember the little things! We’ve been back from our tour of Italy for six weeks now and I can clearly remember every hotel and every breakfast. I remember the rush to set our bags out on the mornings we traveled. I remember trying to photograph something that hundreds of other tourists were taking pictures of as well. I remember how hot it was in Rome, Florence and Cinque Terre and how relentless the wind was in Assisi and Isle of Capri. I remember wanting more time to watch the sunset in the Tuscan Valley, to gaze at the moon over the peaceful lagoon in Venice, and to listen as waves tickled the shores of Lake Maggiorre. I also remember our fellow travelers and hope they enjoyed the trip as much as we did. On our very last night together, our tour director Anna said, “every journey tells a story”. Well, it was quite a journey and it made for a wonderful story… and even though this story has come to an end, the memories remain!
A beautiful sunset at the airport welcomed us home!
